I've belonged to a cookbook club on Facebook for a few years now and I go through fits and starts concerning participating. A friend, who also has a cookbook collection, reminded me that I could also just choose a book from my library and cook from it, and I might well do that. But I've also learned new things from new cookbooks, even the ones that did not become permanent additions to the shelves.
In December I was mostly cooking from Cook, Eat, Repeat Nigella Lawson. I'd owned the book for a while but hadn't gotten further than just reading it. Lawson write well about food, and I've always been a person who can curl up with a good cookbook just as easily as I can curl up with a good novel. Still, I found moving from imagination to reality and actually cooking.
This dish, beet and feta spaghetti, was both beautiful and delicious. Basically, the pasta is partially cooked in water and then finished in beet juice, which the pasta absorbs. After cooking the noodles are tossed with feta and herbs. The texture reminds me very much of risotto and specifically of a beet risotto I made regularly from the 90's through 00's. Same principle, in that beet juice was used as the cooking liquid. I stopped making the risotto simply because risotto for one seems a bit much. But I can easily see myself making this again, and enjoying it.
Another pasta dish was this spaghetti with chard. I used twice as much chard to noodle as the recipe specified, which is pretty much in character. Since I love chard and usually either grow it or buy it every week, this could easily become a staple dish for those days when I just need to toss something together quickly.
I also cooked beef cheeks with port and chestnuts, a deeply satisfying winter dish, just the kind of thing I adore. I was also on a bit of a freezer clean-out (still happening) and happened to have beef cheeks available. The stew is rich and satisfying and, like most braises and stews, improves with age. The chestnuts add a particularly nice textural dimension and flavor. Those beef cheeks had been in the freezer some time, and I was questioning whether or not they were something I would continue to want to cook. Should I have even asked? How silly. All I needed to do was start cooking. Of course I want to cook beef cheeks and all manner of deeply browned braised meats.
Just before Christmas I made this celeriac gratin. Celeriac is another vegetable that I adore and Lawson has a nice collection of celeriac recipes, all of which I want to try. Unfortunately it took me until just before Christmas to find the celeriac, and truthfully I was despairing of its absence in the markets. Even though I have been in Tennessee over ten years, occasionally, something like this happens, some vegetable I thought of as a common staple becomes hard to find and I despair. Once I found celeriac however, my heart was filled with gladness. I tried this dish. Much like a potato gratin, it is just as rich but somehow also lighter, perfect for a holiday meal.
Lawson opens the book with a great section on anchovies, and I could have spent the entire month just immersed in the ideas I found there, were they something simple, like marinated white anchovies on a biscuit with butter, or anchovies scattered over eggs and a bowl of greens with a harissa dressing. Spinach was suggested for the latter; I used spigiarello, which has been abundant in my winter garden. Now that the spigirarello has emerged from under the snow, I might be treating myself to this again tomorrow.
I also tried two new recipes from previous cookbooks:
This recipe for corn creamed in coconut milk is from Andy Baraghani's book, The Cook You Want to Be, and I had wanted to make it since the book came up, but I was traveling a lot. I made it with frozen corn, and I keep canned coconut milk in my pantry so this was pretty much a pantry side for me. I might have said I was on the fence regarding this book, but of the four recipes I have cooked so far, three have been repeats that I thoroughly enjoy eating, so perhaps a success after all.
I also made this orange and radish salad from Paula Wolfert's book, The Food of Morocco, a book I've had a long time, and cooked from pretty regularly, but I had never made this particular salad before. I made it with those little oranges called "cuties" in the grocery store, and, since I've pretty much had a bag of them in my refrigerator all winter, as well as a steady supply of radishes, this salad has become a constant winter treat.