At times, over the past 23 months it seems that all I wanted was to get away, to go someplace, any place. Why was it then, when a long-scheduled vacation finally loomed, I had decidedly mixed feelings?
Anyway, I went. I had a great time. It was not always smooth, but then, what in life is? I admit that as much of my trepidation about traveling, about traveling alone, was that in the past, the world of 24 months ago, I was finding that I did not really relish solo travel all that much. But perhaps I just needed to slough something off, something that I might not have sloughed off otherwise. Perhaps I needed to realize that I am only as alone as I chose to be, and that solo travel does not imply loneliness.
I can admit that my initial reaction to Key West was mixed. I arrived near dusk. I ventured out to the seaport and along Duval Street and I was struggling with crowds and noise. This was in sharp opposition to my reaction to airports and travel itself. Why was it that Duval Street made me pull inward, whereas I can drift through a crowded airport as if in a bubble?
Something I noticed before, before I stopped traveling, is that I find the travel itself quite calming. I am perhaps neurotically organized. I am always packed and ready at least a day before. I can feel at loose ends waiting. But at the same time this helps with my feelings of calmness. I've been stranded in airports due to cancelled planes and I tend to be calm and bemused. There is something about going to an airport, about planning travel, that allows me to just let go of the idea that I have any say in controlling events in the world, that allows me to make myself into an island of calm. Home may be my kingdom, and I want control. In the world, it is easier to slough all that off. This seems like phenomenal growth. Would that I could maintain it in my daily life.
When I arrive however, that bubble seems to burst; perhaps it is just the yearning that takes over, the idea of vacation, the idea of escape, of adventure, of fulfillment. That first evening in an unfamiliar place, I was nervous in crowds but also nervous on a street that felt too quiet in contrast. Of course this stems from years of training, compounded by now years of isolation and this crazy- making hyperbolic world we live in, a world that sometimes seems determined to feed on fear, on making us fear one another. That first night on Duval Street was like the meeting of two opposing seas, leaving me in emotional turmoil. I had left the safety of home, but hadn't yet found my vacation self. I felt like Dorothy landing in Oz. I think there is always that moment of transition, a moment when pent up expectation spills over; how we experience it may vary, but it too is part of the beauty of vacation.
I found a happy corner to settle down in. I had soup, and shrimp, and a vantage point for people watching. That airport calm descended once again. I walked back to my hotel in the cooler night air. I wasn't yet sure what I thought of this place; at first it seemed too casual, too loud, too "tourista". But that was mostly me, my own unsettledness. It takes me a little while to shift gears sometimes, even shifting into gears that have been getting more frequent use as I grow older.
The second morning I found a great breakfast and coffee spot, a place I stopped most mornings. I wandered around old town. I admired the neighborhoods, the bars, the stores, the music, the artists. I loved the fact that chickens, and especially roosters, wandered around everywhere. This seemed a metaphor for something, perhaps just the idea of not rushing. I watched a gecko while I drank a cup of strong Cuban coffee. I hadn't put words to that something at that point; I am not sure I have yet. But I too began to unwind, to enjoy this place, the ambiance, the casual vibe. I began to let go of my own expectations.
That did not come as easily as it sounds writing the words. It is so easy to write, "I let go". But nothing is really that simple, is it? I found my joys and my disappointments came in waves, but overall the good quickly outnumbered the bad, and mostly came when least expected, lost in a moment, often of mundanity.
I retreated during the heat of the day to my shady porch, or perhaps to the big window with the easy chair and my knitting. I am still not a creature of the hotter climes. I love the angled sunshine of winter light. I burn in the hotter sun, get sun poisoning and headaches, but that doesn't mean I don't love the easy going flow of tropical and sub-tropical climes. And yet here I was, happy and content, enjoying shade and warm breezes, the languor of the siesta.
I was went to Key West for an event, a literary festival, but I will write about that in another post. I attended. I missed some things. I walked a lot, more than I had in a long time, since before my cancer treatment, only 3 to 5 miles a day, but it was a start. I hope to keep walking now that I am home in cooler weather. I needed the boost, the interruption to my state of inertia.
What I found, and what I often forget, is that for me the best part of vacation is not seeing the sights, or doing the things that everyone tells me I must do, but in the wandering around, in talking to people. In just sitting back and being in a place. I went to the Hemingway museum. I did not go on the water. Yes I want to see and do but I also just want to unwind and be myself. What is surprising, although it should not be, is that being myself in a foreign environment is subtly different than being myself at home, and that, in and of itself is quite revealing. What is always surprising is that the highlights aren't the museum, or the adventure, but the little moments one was not expecting. The chance encounters, the birds at your feet, the crow of a rooster.
Vacation, all I ever wanted....
Well who knew? Sometimes we go place for the wrong reasons. Sometimes we go for the right reasons but with the wrong expectations. Sometimes it all falls in place. Sometimes it doesn't. But if we are lucky something we needed is revealed.
Key West. I will be back. And this from a woman who usually avoids vacations to hot places.