I've been in and out of San Antonio all of my life. My late uncle lived here, and his wife, my aunt Lillian still does. My grandmother lived in the Menger Hotel for some years, and I loved visiting her there. That hotel was a grand adventure and an exciting home-away-from-home, although I have not stayed there in recent years.
On my last visit, I stayed at Hotel Emma, housed in the landmark Pearl's Brewhouse, at the heart of the relatively newly redeveloped Pearl Brewery district. I've been to the district for the farmer's market, for brunch, and for shopping. But this was my first stay. I may have found a San Antonio home away from home.
I was entranced as I stood, waiting to check in, part of a sudden bubble of new arrivees. I was happy to look at the Mexican tile floor. Of course it seems I have a long history of looking at floors, and remembering them. The only thing I remembered from my first visit to the Alhambra at age 7 was a particular floor. Thirty years later I was happy to find that floor once again, connecting my childhood self to my adult self in a strange land.
Of course this tile floor also reminded me of my own, as yet not installed, Mexican tile floor. This one will be in my guest bathroom.
That first evening, after checking in and unpacking, I wandered down to the library for a welcome cocktail. The library was a welcoming and cozy place filled with books and comfortable chairs. I was particularly attracted to an interesting collection of art books and I spent some time perusing the collection, especially in the mornings, when I would wander down for coffee. Coffee was available every morning beginning at 6AM, freshly brewed and served by a hotel employee. This was just one of the many details that make the place special and welcoming. Coffee, served in a real china cup, and a touch of human contact is no small thing. I could have had a pot sent up to my room, but I think I was more attracted to the idea of coffee in the library, and one morning, when it was cold and rainy and my aunt was otherwise occupied, I just settled in with a book and my journal, watching and occasionally conversing with a steady stream of hotel guests, young and old.
In fact complimentary coffee, and plenty of bottled water, generously distributed in the rooms were among the small details that make the Hotel Emma stand out. It is not that I could not or would not buy coffee or water, but that it is ultimately a small expense that feels far more welcoming than forcing your guests to buy these things. It is the little details that make me want to come back, even more than the well-appointed rooms and the fabulous view from my window.
Even the bathrooms made me happy. They seemed to fit the space, feeling luxuriously modern yet still in keeping with the vintage vibe of the hotel, and were supplied with generous towels, cushy bath mats, and full-sized bottles of soap and shampoo. One felt like a welcome guest. I appreciated all the small details like period-appropriate ceramic switch plates and an old-fashioned battery operated alarm clock, as well as well-thought out and generous outlets to accommodate all sorts of modern electronic accoutrements.
I had a great weekend despite the weather. In fact, Hotel Emma is a great retreat, a great home away from home, and it was probably the perfect hotel in which to spend an otherwise miserable weekend. The food was fabulous as was the bar, and there were places to settle in and either converse with one's neighbors or curl up with a book.
Granted I loved the thoughtful planning of the space, the industrial-chic look, and the thoughtful seating areas that were actually comfortable and inviting. But Emma felt like a place to gather, not simply a place to rest one's head. It is also conveniently located as well. The Pearl district has several inviting places to eat and shop and the hotel is on the river walk, offering a good place for either a casual stroll or a more ambitious run. It is only a mile and a half, more or less, to the historical arts district, La Villita along the riverwalk, slightly less to a plethora of restaurants and bars. Of course you don't have to walk, Emma is also an easy drive or uber away from downtown restaurants, an easy center from which to explore, or in which just to stay in, as I did when I wasn't visiting my aunt or my favorite museum. I could happily go back tomorrow.
Top photo, of the Hotel Emma, is taken from the Hotel Emma website. All other photos are mine.
