Although I've always loved to cook, I go through phases, and occasionally get stuck in a rut of the tried and true and familiar. Over the past year or so however, I've found myself increasingly in play mode. This is due in part to cookbook clubs. I've been in one, run through the Food 52 organization, now discontinued. for years, participating off and on. Ii threw myself into it more fully last year, determined to at least try every cookbook, even those I had doubts about. and I found the experience exciting and inspiring, opening my mind and taste buds toward thinking about food in new ways. Then I joined another cookbook club and the fun increased further, even though I do not always manage to keep up with the clubs.
And yet, I want to write about some of my adventures in the kitchen.
II purchased this book, Made in Taiwan, by Clarissa Wei and Ivy Chen last December but didn't start reading or cooking from it until this year. I do love reading cookbooks, and admit that there was a period where I did more reading and less cooking. Not this book. For the first time in a long long time I want to cook everything in this book, even things I don't normally eat or make. I enjoy the nerdy details, such as making rice noodles from scratch, and even recipes for how to make the rice flour from raw rice kernels. Yes, I could buy rice noodles, but I also love learning about the background and history of a thing, and I firmly believe that our food says so much about who we are. We build large communities based on cooperation, and we cook our food; how could these things not say something about who we are? Anyway, I am intrigued enough that I will eventually try most of these recipes even if I never make them again..
So far however I've only made three dishes from this book. Each dish was an absolute winner and I very much look forward to cooking more.
The first recipe I tried was for a stir-fry of sweet potato leaves. A basic thing, right? I love green vegetables and don't believe I've met a green leafy vegetable I haven't liked. It also seems like every cuisine I've learned about has some basic technique for cooking green leafy vegetables. Although the greens are different, the techniques are similar in that they incorporate some basic fat, aromatics, and water.
So sweet potato greens show up in my local Asian market, and recently they have even begun showing up in the farmer's markets. The greens in the Asian market are young and tender, perfect for this recipe, whereas the ones I got at the farmer's market last year were large and tough. My attempt at stir-frying those was a failure, but I suspect the farmer in question was thinking of them more as a braising green. If I see them again, I am now ready to explore the possibilities further.
But back to the greens at hand. The leaves of this bunch of sweet potato greens was smallish and tender, the stems tender as well. With the right greens this dish was a relevation. The stems displayed a small bit of toothsomeness with an almost nutty hint of bitterness to them. I discerned no particular bitterness in the leaves however, just a light, almost buttery flavor with just a hint of floral fruitiness that offsets the garlic perfectly. They are light, much the way spinach is light, but with slightly more crispness to the mouth-feel than spinach, and without spinach's sometimes mineraly flavor.
And, while I am on the subject of greens I tried another new to me green when I made the recipe for Sacha Beef with Water Spinach. I don't believe I'd ever knowingly had water spinach before, but now it is a regular addition to my grocery cart just so I can make this dish.